Europe's new river-cruise game-changer is Aussie - and I was among the first onboard

Solara was launched in April and we're on board the Ostara, launched in June. The identical ships' goal is to bring a new level of luxury to travel along the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers. We're among the first guests on Ostara to see whether the reality matches the hype.

As I agonise over whether to pack a dinner jacket, my far more glamorous European wife raises an eyebrow as she neatly folds her elegant evening wear. "You do know this is a classy ship," she says. I take the hint.

Proudly flying an Australian flag from its bow, this is no jumbo cruise ship full of neon waterslides and squealing children. Think shirts and slacks for dining, tasteful, understated decor and cocktails on the upper deck as you cruise effortlessly onwards, James Bond style. The dark navy exterior, offset with flashes of white and yellow, stands out from the crowd on the busy harbours, but it's inside that the ship really starts to show off. A skylit atrium is an eye-catching centrepiece of the entrance lobby, where a rope sculpture by Australian artist Sarah Parkes brings a nautical theme to the centre stairwell.

Upstairs in the Salon lounge, where low-sung sofas and tables are set around a central bar, the vibe is casual and social. By night a more upbeat entertainment vibe takes over, and we're treated to a lively Franconian oompah band on our second night. Unsurprisingly, it's an older, mostly Australian crowd on board, but the truly international crew works hard to show off the cultural highlights of the areas we pass through, with guest speakers giving historical lectures and the best local produce and wines on offer.

There are three levels of luxury to choose from among the 77 cabins, starting with the opulent Owner's Suite. Tasteful strip lighting is recessed into the ceiling and the colour scheme is one of muted whites, creams and subtle browns. There's a sofa niche with coffee table, but the real highlight is the outdoor balcony.

We're staying in a category A French Balcony Suite, the next level down which, if we hadn't seen the very top tier, we would have easily mistaken for the most comfortable digs on the water. Again, off-whites, light tones and honey-coloured timbers dominate these 17-square-metre rooms. Floor-to-ceiling electric windows slide down halfway, allowing us to better take in the sights and sounds of the river. We wave at passing children on the bank and watch as long-legged herons wade through nearby shallows.

Paul Hecker, one of the Melbourne-based designers behind the designs, says the intention was not to create floating hotel rooms but to remind guests they were on a ship. This is achieved through panelling, low-slung lampshades and louvres that bring a subtle nautical theme to the cabins. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Twin Window catoegory of suites, where light and airy gives way to warm, dark timbers and cozy niches.

River cruising is a much more intimate affair than being onboard an ocean liner, but this hasn't prevented APT from providing six distinct dining experiences. And it's clear they've identified fine dining as one of the areas where they want to set themselves apart from the competition.

Upstairs behind the salon, there are open buffets of fine cheeses, fresh fruit and a la carte casual dining, and one level down, there's a strong emphasis on highlighting the best local cuisine of the region we're passing through. The ship also has a party trick - the Gruener bar and restaurant that elevates on a hydraulic lift to create a panoramic view.

But the top-tier dining experience is the Owner's Cellar, a private dining room with a long, shared table that ends in a display of beautiful wines. We're treated to a five-course tasting menu featuring pike perch in brown butter and capers with hazelnuts and grapefruit, slow-cooked sirloin with salsa verde and potato gratin. Desserts are presented like works of art on uniquely branded crockery. Wines from Germany, France and Austria are matched to each course. Our degustation ends with a sweet, crisp dessert wine from Hungary.

Everything from the eggs benedict at breakfast up to the Owner's Cellar is a faultless, well-thought-out dining experience that tips its hat to the local cuisine while keeping Australian preferences in mind.

There's a small gym on board if you're feeling guilty about all the fine dining. But a better option is right next door at the spa, where a relaxing massage can be booked, just the thing after a busy day of exploring. But when the sun is out there's no better place to be than up on the top deck.

We return from exploring Ruedesheim, on the Rhine in Germany, to find the crew cooking up a magnificent outdoor seafood barbecue, and we laze in the sun, Aperol in hand. The farewell party before arriving in Amsterdam is an unmissable night of dancing as the ship's musicians belt out ABBA favourites and get everyone out of their seats.

It's a truly international affair on board from our energetic Hungarian cruise director Bernadette through to crew from Bolivia, Serbia and Myanmar, and they all speak good English. And they never stop moving. We return one afternoon to find a crew member, paint tin in hand, inspecting the hull for marks. Upstairs, more crew are on their hands and knees dusting the (to my eyes) already immaculately clean skirting boards. It's clear that a lot of care and effort has gone into these new ships, and everyone from captain Cristian Tapoi down takes pride in keeping them in perfect condition.

Beating the Europeans on their own turf sounds like an audacious ambition for an Australian company. But it's clear APT is out to set a new standard on some of the world's most magnificent waterways.

The writer was a guest of APT