Travel to Vietnam is on the rise, and this island stay is the ultimate experience

La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc is an elegant celebration of 1920s French colonial mansion architecture, on a private beach in Vietnam. Now part of Accor's luxury MGallery Hotel Collection, it was originally owned by wealthy founder, "Madame Catherine", and is inspired by her family history in the former Indochine region. Overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, the resort has a whimsical, romantic ambience, plus all the modern comforts you'd expect from a property that has garnered many awards and accolades, including Asia's Leading Boutique Resort in the World Travel Awards for 2023, 2024 and 2025.

The beachfront resort - surrounded by lush gardens at the end of a winding laneway - is on the west coast of Phu Quoc island. It's easy to imagine you've stepped back in time to a more genteel age: if you don't venture off the resort grounds, you'd never know the laneway is filled with Irish pubs, cheap laundrettes, local food and foot massage services. The west coast cops a lot of wind and choppy seas, at least during my visit, but I'm told this is a seasonal thing and at other times it's idyllic. For those who wish to swim in the sea, the resort offers a free daily shuttle to Sao Beach on the east coast.

MGallery properties are known for having unique backstories and aesthetics, and in this regard La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc fits the brief. It's worlds away from a cookie-cutter, samey-samey hotel that could be anywhere from Hanoi to Hamburg. Big balconies, sweeping staircases and jungly grounds are ideal backdrops for personal photo shoots. In the public areas, bars and restaurants, there's evidence this was once a grand family home. Are the framed portraits straight from a set designer's warehouse, or treasured keepsakes of the people who once lived here? We're not sure, but it works.

There are 74 rooms and villas, featuring private balconies or terraces and sophisticated decor with heritage appeal (four-poster beds, low-and-slow overhead fans, plantation shutters, handpainted mosaic tiles). My suite is the size of an apartment, with a separate dining area, lounge and an enormous bathroom. Spring for one of the rooms with an unobstructed ocean view.

Do not skip breakfast. I repeat, do not skip breakfast. What a pleasure it is to start each day with fresh pomelo salad, a rainbow of tropical fruits, excellent French-style pastries and Asian savoury favourites. There are "healthy" options for guests doing the wellness program, but in truth everything is fresh, delicious and nourishing. The resort's fine-dining restaurant, The Pepper Tree, offers set menus designed by top Vietnamese chefs. Try the wok-fried prawns in tamarind sauce, prepared tableside to order. I enjoyed the all-day bistro menu served on the airy verandah, with good-value options including spring rolls and nasi goreng.

Guests would be forgiven for simply cocooning at the resort, ordering a cocktail by the pool and having a massage. If you do feel like exploring, Phu Quoc island has the world's longest sea cable car ride, lively night markets, watersports and sunset bars. Download the Grab app for inexpensive rides around town.

A strong contender for the best massage I've ever had, the three-hour treatment at TINH Wellness Sanctuary, the resort's expansive spa, is exquisite.

The writer was a guest of the hotel