A stay to remember: We checked into three of Nice's most glamorous hotels

The moment you step out into that airy light, you can feel yourself exhale. Sea that glitters like glass, buildings the colour of limoncello, and even the locals seem to move at half-speed. Within hours, you're doing the same - unfurling, slowing, letting that classy coastal confidence seep in.

As with all beautiful cities, where you stay shapes how you experience it. Here are three of Nice's finest stays, each offering a different take on Riviera life.

Overlooking the Baie des Anges, set just back from the Promenade, Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle - with the most glamorous rooftop in town. The historic and grand 19th-century building has been beautifully restored, with edgy artworks and sleek modern interiors. The 151 rooms offer a garden, sea view, balcony or terrace.

But the real draw is upstairs: SEEN by Olivier, the rooftop restaurant and bar with the apt tagline: Nice: Sin and be seen, where locals gather at sunset over cocktails as the city opens below. Mornings start with perfectly buttery French pastries and fruit; evenings bring Mediterranean plates and fresh seafood. Service shines - especially up here on the rooftop, but also downstairs, where the concierge will sort a museum tour or a lounger at Ruhl Plage, the hotel's partnered beach club across the promenade.

Best for: Rooftop dining and modern Riviera glamour - with that panoramic rooftop restaurant and bar.

From: From 380 euros ($690) per night; anantara.com

Carved into the limestone cliffs above the old port and concealed behind lemon trees at the base of Castle Hill, this boutique retreat opens onto terraced balconies with knockout views across the Mediterranean. Opened in 2023 after an extensive and complex renovation, each of the 53 bedrooms feels personal and sunlit, with shutters that frame the curve of the bay and a delicious citrusy sea breeze. The rooftop pool - half hidden among limestone - might be the most peaceful spot in Nice.

Dinner at Le Patio, the hotel's award-winning garden restaurant, unfolds under a canopy of olive branches and fairy lights. (Seriously, I felt cooler just sitting there.) Expect Nicoise flavours, grilled fish, rosé and that effortless Riviera rhythm that blurs day into night. Again, with fabulous service and charm not generally discussed in relation to France.

Artists and actors have long favoured La Pérouse for its privacy; it's the kind of place that feels like a beautiful secret.

Best for: A secret cliff-edge escape above the sea - and privacy, peace and Riviera romance.

From: 420 euros ($760) per night; laperouse.com

A 40-minute drive inland, in the hills above Vence, Château Saint-Martin & Spa is more whole new world than hotel. This former 12th-century Knights Templar château is now a serene hideaway of terraced gardens, cypress trees and lavender, its infinity pool gazing toward the distant sea. Suites balance Provencal warmth with French refinement - all pale marble, soft fabrics and views across the valley.

The Michelin-starred Le Saint-Martin restaurant celebrates seasonal produce and the region's wines, while the also much-awarded La Prairie Spa makes for an indulgent pause between strolls and sunset drinks. Here, days drift from terrace breakfasts to hilltop walks and candlelit dinners.

It's luxurious, but in that quiet, almost spiritual way that only the South of France can manage.

Best for: Countryside serenity and Michelin-star dining

From: 650 euros ($1175) per night; oetkercollection.com

The writer was a guest of Virgin Australia