Beyond the fascinator: vintage hats triumph in Spring Racing fashion trends

At this year's Cup, racegoers drew inspiration from mid-century trends and vintage style icons, such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.

And they were leaning toward bold, bright colours, a Victorian milliner said.

In a sea of colourful fascinators and angular hats bobbing in the crowd, milliner Felicity Northeast could spot one of her creations across Flemington Racecourse.

The milliner, based in Mount Eliza on the Mornington Peninsula, said she liked to sidle up beside the racegoer to introduce herself and to check how they had styled her hat.

"It's quite fun at the races to spot your hats in the crowd, sometimes even years after you sold them," she said.

She said that warm colours, such as red and pink, "go with almost everything," and would continue to be popular at the Spring Racing Carnival in 2025.

White and black designs were always chic, she said.

But soft, primary colour pastels were the "standout" shades of the season, particularly hats made in lemon yellow or pale blue.

Red and pink were also the most popular colours of hats in Victorian milliner Louise Macdonald's collection.

But the veteran hatmaker, who opened a store in Melbourne's Nicholas Building, said that she chose her colour palette based on shades that could be versatile.

"But sometimes I just go completely wild and do a hat in green, even though green is considered unlucky at the racetrack," Ms Macdonald said.

"But I'm not really one for superstitions. I like that colour," she said.

While fascinators and headpieces would continue to be popular at the 2025 carnival, two vintage styles have surged in popularity this year.

The pillbox, a small hat with a flat crown, straight sides, and no brim, was a favourite of this season, the milliners said.

These designs could be embellished with lace or veiling to add interest, or they could be worn in a plain, block colour for maximum effect.

Hats with a Dior-style brim were also popular among racegoers, the milliners said.

This wide-brimmed hat shape is often made with a shallow crown and a sloping, downturned brim.

For those who create the headwear and fascinators, the Spring Racing season is far from glamorous.

It's a three-month rush each year, with Ms Macdonald estimating that she earns "about 75 per cent" of her income between August and October.

"There are lots of races and festivities up and down the east coast before the Melbourne Cup, though, they keep me busy," she said.

The milliner also supplements her income by teaching hatmaking classes in Melbourne.

"When I first started, for the first seven years, I thought 'Oh god, why am I doing this?' It's a hard slog and a lot of work, like any small business," she said.

"I've been doing this for over 30 years, and I still love the sculpting and creating. I hate the bookwork, but now I feel very lucky to be able to make a career out of it."